Global Urban Trek Lima 2006: Follow Up

Howdy All!

Well, I got back from a brief trip to Lima on Wednesday and I figured I ought to share it with you all since you've all been there. I'm shamelessly copying my friend's brilliant travel log in the format I'm presenting the trip. (I'm even shamelessly copying the phrase "shamelessly copying" in reference to the writers he shamelessly copies.) Finally, I'm really bad about taking photos. I really should have taken a lot more, and more of relevant subjects but I'm sharing what I got. With that, here we go:

Being an American in Venezuela brings the cursed blessing of having to leave the country every three months to renew a tourist visa. Since we all got to know Lima and some Peruvian folk about a year and a half ago, and since I was seriously missing the food, the decision to go to there was pretty easy. However, getting the trip meticulously planned out in great minutia didn't quite happen. Actually, aside from a plane ticket and a lunch with Chris Conti, I didn't have anything planned out.

None the less, I arrived at Lima with little to no problems by 2 in the afternoon on Saturday. I figured I'd try the AGEUP house to see if anyone was there, and see if they had any space to stay a few nights thanks to a tip from Eli. Unfortunately, I didn't have their address, only a phone number Eli had sent. I managed to find a map of Lima and all the sectors online. I was pretty sure that the Chinese church we stayed at, which I remember being somewhat close to the AGEUP office, was in the sector of Pueblo Libre. Pretty sure. Later I remembered that there was that park we walked by that had the face of Jesus carved in the tree. I had a slight inclination that the park might be named Parque Bolivar. There are probably a billion Parque Bolivars in Caracas alone, not to mention all of Latin America or Lima. But, it was what I had to go on and worth a shot.

At the airport I asked a taxi driver if there was A Parque Bolivar in Pueblo Libre. And miracle, there was! So off we went. I think we all remember that the drivers in Lima are crazy. At the time, I figured that it was that way everywhere outside the states. Now after being to three other countries outside the US, I can easily say the craziest drivers are in Lima. We drove a bit and nothing was looking familiar. Then everything looked familiar which really made me doubt if I had hit the right spot. Finally, we passed a park, and then another park with a sculptured head of Bolivar the size of my bedroom. Low and behold, it was the one.


If you're wondering what's up with that smiling paper drawing stuck in Jesus' braid, you'll need to ask Markietta from Dana's 5th Grade class. He shows up in a lot of pictures.

Thankfully I had found "the place" without yet finding "the place". I spent the next hour and a half walking around trying to find the AGEUP office. It really felt like that one day in orientation where we had to go and find the park, the Jesus carving above, the AGEUP office, then the smoke detector price (I didn't bother to check this, there were slightly more important things to do). I remembered the office was really hard to find, and so only after crisscrossing the whole area for an hour did I finally decide to give in an call the number I had. I was off by 12 blocks and I headed over and found the correct street. It is amazing how the neighborhoods all look the same. They are really nice too. I kind of felt like I was in the states. There were a lot of pet dogs, but not like adopted street dogs. No, these were pure bred, small lap dogs, ie. Schnauzers. I even saw a number of signs like....



The glare is a little bad, but the sign says: Whatever your dog does is your responsibility. Avoid the Fines. Pick up their solid waste! That would be a useful sign here in the barrios.

So, I managed to find the AGEUP house and upon entering . . .

Whoa! Did you guys switch hair? Actually I took this picture later, since Nemo and Pilar (Civil Engineering student girl that joined us later in the trip. She's in the picture at the top) were there when I came in. Cesar was upstairs sleeping/recovering from Dengue. They along with some other students were there doing some national planning stuff for AGEUP. Pilar was gracious enough to ask me if I was staying there and I gladly accepted. I went upstairs, caught up with Cesar and rested a bit. Later that night they invited me to a wedding. I didn't know the people getting married, nor did I have anything nice to wear. Cesar's shoes didn't match his suit so he decided to go casual, and one of the other students going didn't have nice clothes with him either. So, what the heck? I went.

The wedding was held in a small church between a Pollo a la Brasa restaurant and a hardware store. The neighborhood was in total darkness when we arrived. One of the groomsmen was in the middle of the street, trying to throw an electrical chord onto the power lines to get the power back on. I didn't understand what he was doing until he succeeded and the weight of the cord (still in his hands) brought two power lines together, and all the lights came back on.

The wedding and journey there and back was an excellent time to catch up with Cesar, Nemo, Pilar and a number of other students I hadn't met before. I forgot how funny these guys are. Like really funny. Cesar was talking all through the wedding which I found hilarious, even though we were talking about serious stuff. (Serious like theology serious). I was also struck by how nice the Peruvians are. The culture here in Caracas is very harsh (think stereotypical New Yorkers on a bad day), and I really do love it and it is starting to wear off on me. However in Peru, everyone is very accommodating and friendly. A random guy I met in a restaurant the last day I was there led and accompanied me to the airport of his own good will. That's hospitality.

The wedding went alright although there wasn't any dancing to speak of, but it was a good time over all simply to hang out, hear about life, and eat amazingly delicious chicken. Pilar is still studying Civil Engineering and has about two years left. I think she's also the President of AGEUP. Cesar and Nemo are still studying anthropology at the University in Cusco and hope to get a masters with a focus in missions. They are hoping to eventually find undiscovered people groups in the Amazon and live with them and develop a proper native theology. All our theology mostly comes from the stream of dead white guys. Having a native/indigenous theology is really cool and a much welcomed and needed voice. I hope they can do it.

The next day in the AGEUP house, I woke up to take a shower and:

Irony: Spending three weeks in Peru without ever taking a warm shower; spending three months in Venezuela without ever taking a warm shower; the first morning back in Peru: taking a warm shower. It felt so weird, like I was getting a shower in soup. I honestly didn't like it, but I still did it.

I met up with Chris Conti for lunch that Sunday. I didn't bring my camera, but she's doing excellent and is very happy to be living in Peru and is confident that it is where she is supposed to be. I think you all get her updates so I won't say much else. We ate Lomo Saltado; it was divine. In fact, all the food I ate was amazing. I met a guy from the Checz Republic during a unfortunate side trip to Panama. He's quite the traveler, but came to Peru this time just to eat. I don't blame him, that's half the reason I went as well.

Later that afternoon I ran into Jaime (again didn't have my camera on me.) He's also doing very well, but he was very tired. He had been up translating at church for some short term group and had been showing them all around. Translating and watching over a group of foreigners is hard work. You never actually realize it until you're on the other side doing the showing around. Jaime's currently working down in Pisco, one of the towns majorly affected by the earthquake. He's using his architecture abilities to show the people how to rebuild their houses out of locally available and inexpensive materials. The problem is, the people have a huge process to go through before they can get funds from the government to build their houses. There have been a lot of questions as to where the funds have gone, or not gone as is the case. The situation is still pretty dire down there with lots of folks without housing, and more donations aren't going to help at this point. But Jaime's at work and doing an amazing job from what I hear. Also, thankfully its summer there and the weather is rather warm. And that's why Lima built this:


I wish I had taken this picture, but I found it on the web. (I forgot my camera again, but Nemo has some pictures if I ever get in contact with him). This is now, the biggest fountain park/complex in the world; thirteen fountains in all. One has really cool images splayed on it and some with lasers and some are interactive and some you walk through and some are a little overdone, but really, really awesome overall. If you go to Lima again, you have to visit. And bring a towel just in case. Cesar, Nemo, Pilar, a number of other students and myself explored the park until way to late, tried to find dinner, got separated in the process, reunited walked the streets looking for food on a Sunday at now midnight and finally found a small burger/sandwich joint (not McDonalds or the like). Again, I was blessed to be able to hang out with them and just felt a strong camaraderie. Being able to understand and communicate probably had a lot to do with it. Hanging out with college students again probably had a lot to do with it. Pilar saying she should marry me probably had something to do with it (the comment came out of left field. We're not involved in anyway that I'm aware of, but still, THAT'S hospitality!). So, it was really sad to say goodbye to them the next day as they all had to leave to their own cities. But they all ask how all of you are doing, what's going on in your lives and were sad that no one's visited them yet. They send all their greetings to all of you and would probably love to hear from you too. For some reason we were under the impression that we had each others email addresses, but I don't think we do. So, if you have Cesar/Nemo/Pilar's info, let me know.

Monday I went up to San Martin and San Antonio. I left later than I would have preferred, but saying goodbyes are important. I got there just before 1 so it worked out. It was nice to make the trip in the day to see the city and the change from the center to the outskirts. The walk from the road to San Martin was nice, but I forgot how long of a walk it was. On the way, at a bluish house on the right, I ran into a guy who was perplexed by my appearance, (like all the people there). I explained where I was going and that I had been there before. He warned me that there were a number of troublesome youth in the area and that they would rob me if they got the chance, especially in the area where they keep the pigs. I figured things must have gone downhill in San Martin, but kept going.

When I got there, the community looked dead. No one was walking around, not even a dog. The community center we built looked a heck a lot nicer with some paintings on the front and AGEUP's symbol on the door. Also there was a new roof of the corrugated plastic variety. I went to Ema's house and knocked. Nothing. I knocked again, and same response. I tried a third time, shouted her name and finally sat down. A minute later, her daughter came to the tienda window and we talked a bit. Ema had left and would be returning at some point. An older woman sauntered up and we talked a bit and caught up. She seemed glad to see me and it was nice to see that there were still people living there.

After about thirty minutes, I decided to see if the playground was still in tact. I walked over (now accompanied by a few small kids) and lo and behold, everything was still there. I had expected the whole thing to be in tatters, but it was in good repair, even the paint. The swing was gone and the bridge was a bit lopsided, but in amazing condition overall. Not even one rock missing from the surrounding pole/fence/mound thing we built. I didn't take a picture since I was still a bit sketched out about the supposed trouble makers. I didn't recognize the kids I was with, but they were content to chat away:

"I bet I can cross! Or, or, I can put my legs in there. (She was on the jungle gym part) I don't like it when my parents fight. My dad drinks and threatens my mom and they fight. He was at the river and said he would kill my mom."
"What!? When?"
"Now. He had a broken bottle and was yelling. Ayyy!! I'm falling!"
I helped her down and she skipped back to the steps to try and cross again.
"Where are they?"
"He's at the river."

Another girl joined in the conversation. Somehow we ended up talking about their folks fighting, how they felt about it, and we did a brief prayer session for their trauma. Right after the prayer, they saw their dad amid the shacks. They took off for their house, the smallest one leading me by the hand. It was only when we got there (the house to the right of Emma's) that they actually acted like little girls and instead of running into battle, they quickly ran away. From what I could see, the couple was gesticulating at each other and I didn't see a broken bottle in the hand of the guy. I wasn't really sure what to do, but Isabel found me just as we arrived. She greeted me with a big hug and smile. I asked her if we should do something for them and explained what the girls had said. She laughed and quickly pulled me away. Aside from a few select cases, that has been the same reaction I've had from almost everyone I've told that story to.

Ema was back at her house. She's doing well. She just had another child and he's only four months old.


Man could that kid fart. Like for a solid 15 seconds and like all babies, he was totally oblivious to it. But he was in good health aside from being a bit grumpy in the heat. I think he's named Nixon, but I could be wrong (I'm really bad with names). Ema brought out the team photo she had of us and asked how you all were doing and what's happened in your lives. I updated her as best as I could and from what I remembered. She then asked what I had brought to give her. I had totally forgot about gifts but after sorting through my empty backpack, I found a flashlight and a small bible. I tried to make up for my failure to bring a real gift by writing her a poem. Isabel got the bible and Ema the flashlight; two forms of light I told them and we had a bit of a follow up conversation on that topic which went pretty well.




I asked everyone there where Brady and Angel were at. From the kids, they said Brady had gone away by himself somewhere south and his family somewhere else. Ema said the family had gone somewhere north and made no special mention of Brady. I don't know how long they have been gone. I also got to see Sr. Lorrenzo (again, not positive on name, maybe its Martin) but he was the guy that helped us clear out that ditch on the last day. Correction: we helped him clear out the ditch. Correction: he pretty much just cleared out the last portion of the ditch by himself. He too is doing well and looked to be in good health and spirits in spite of some pretty dusty clothes.

Ema showed me the community center we had a part in constructing. Another group of gringos, from Colorado none the less, had come and laid a concrete floor and put the new roof on the center. It looked pretty nice. However, as Ema tells it, they just ate sandwiches made from bread from Metro (the big super market there) and never ate anything truly Peruvian. I quickly begged her forgiveness on behalf of our country. There has also been a teacher that has been able to come and teach in the center as well, and also do classes for the adults in literacy. Ema took me past the playground over to the river. I never had been back here before and had no idea there even was a river.

And the beloved pigs too. Ema explained a lot of folks from different areas come and swim in the river. That's why its dangerous on the road. However, they don't enter into San Martin.
"What would happen if they did come here?" I asked Ema.
"I'd kill 'em!"
She seemed to be only half joking. That's NOT hospitality. But defending your community does have value, even if the methods are rather contestable.

We walked back into town, said our goodbyes and I was on my way to track down a mototaxi. In transit, I ran into the two gringo kids and their dad. (the girl was the one that nailed Jonathan right in the Pooh suit.) They were returning from the river in a newer looking van and were totally soaked. The girl really didn't respond to any salutations or questions except at the command of her dad. The boy was mildly friendly and seemed in good health as well. Their dad was very gregarious and I wish I had more time to spend there, but San Antonio was still ahead.

By the time I got up to the World Vision center, it was 4:30 and it would be getting dark by 7. I walked in the center and was greeted by the guard. He gave a huge smile and was very glad to see me again. Unfortunately, I didn't recognize him at all, but it was still great to talk with him. I remembered one of the guard's names was Jose, but this guy was Manuel. He asked where everyone else was, if I was by myself, and how you're all doing. He let me step in the bathroom to freshen up a bit.


Bet that looks familiar. Actually, it was very clean in there. The smell was unchanged and was almost comforting in some sort of Stockholm syndrome manner. Thankfully, I did not have the big D while I was there, but I did manage to get it on Tuesday.

Exiting the bathroom, Manuel conducted me upstairs to talk with the director. Ronald is now working at a regional level in the national office in Lima with World Vision. The new director is very nice and professional. She informed me that this center is actually going to close down in just under two years (Sept. 2009). They've pretty much accomplished their mission here and are now in the process of closing and transferring remaining projects to the community. They also have a main water line so no more relying on the water truck. After talking with her a bit more and thanking her for all the good work and information, I headed up to the track to say hi to the kids.

Somehow one of the kids remembered my name and I remembered almost none of theirs. I don't really know what to say about the kids except that it was cool to see them and they all wanted to see you all. At first they were very shy and didn't respond to any questions but they started to open up after an hour. The overt ones laughed at my Spanish and my use of words that are normal here but that are swear words there (without my knowledge). Jenifer and her brother are still there and doing good. Luis and Jasmine as well. Annie B, I didn't see Leida (was that her name?). The girl that really liked when Emily danced to Jonathon's Ou-Ou song was there too. We sat together, watched a five year old tussle and dance for attention, played a bit of tag, and we briefly visited a family; it didn't go so well but that's another story. Overall, they look like they are all doing great. They all asked for you, where you are, what you're doing, when you'll visit etc etc. Jasmine asked me to sing Victory and then I had to leave. On the way down I saw Jose, the guard, heading up. We talked for only for a second; it was getting dark.

That's the relevant part of the trip. There's a lot more, but I won't bore you with the details except with a parting picture:


Any guesses? Yep, that's the Panama Canal. I didn't want to go to Panama, but thanks to Copa Airlines (Latin Continental), I ended up there for the night. Actually a few hours in the early morning at a resort two hours drive away from the airport. Nice place, but the long travel is a killer late at night. At least I got to cross the canal even if I didn't know it the first time.

Well, all I can say is that both I and Peru miss you all and I hope you all miss Peru as well. At least that's what I told everyone there, and I'd hate to be lying. I know I miss it even though I am very glad to be back "home". But whenever you want to make another trip down there, let me know and I'd be glad to tag along. They'll keep the arroz con leche waiting. Till then, stay strong, seek the Lord and
Press on for Joy!
Cameron